Follow along with Cruise Specialists Voyage Hosts, Steve and Wendy Bodenheimer on Holland America’s 94-day Grand Australia & New Zealand Cruise aboard Volendam.
March 26, 2024:
Greetings from the South Pacific! We had two relaxing days at sea before arriving in the port of Nuku’alofa on the beautiful island of Tonga. The people here are warm and welcoming, with singers and dancers entertaining on the dock as we arrived. The heat and humidity can be felt just by opening any outside deck door.
We have been here at least three times, once renting a car to do an extensive tour. We saw:
- The Chief’s Whistles - spectacular blowholes on the western coast.
- The Royal Tombs - final resting place of King George Tupou and his descendants.
- Tsunami Rock - the world’s largest example of a rock that has been displaced and tossed several hundred meters inland by nature.
- Anahulu Caves - an underground wonder of coral limestone.
- Natural Bridge at Hufangalupe Beach, formed by the collapse of a large underground cave.
Some of these places are included in ship tours which were all sold out by the morning of our arrival. Pro tip – always book your excursions ahead!
Very close to the pier and quite visible from the ship is the Royal Palace, home to the King of Tonga. It is used for ceremonial functions and not open to the public, but spectacular to see, nevertheless.
Since we have seen all the sights and found all the geocaches here, we decided to enjoy the quiet of the ship and not venture out.
Today we cross the International Dateline again and get to have a repeat of March 19th. That gets us back on the same day of the week as the USA and gives us an extra day at sea.
Now that we have some sea time, the special events are starting up again. We just had a Shamrock Soiree to celebrate St Patrick’s Day. Coming up is the Great Gatsby Night, Orange Party, Cake Bliss, Cellar Master Dinner, Guest Chef Dinner, and probably a few more not yet announced. These events are the mark of a Grand Voyage, and we appreciate all the effort that goes into planning and executing these parties to make this Voyage far above the ordinary.
Next stop: Avatiu, Rarotonga - part of the Cook Islands. This is a notoriously difficult place to get to. We were able to visit in 2020 but missed it in 2022 due to weather.
Today, mother nature won the battle of ship vs the sea. We approached the island on what looked to be a perfect day. The sea looked calm - but if you studied it closely, you could see a very big rolling swell. So, when the ship tried to extend its tender platform, it was immediately swamped with water, an unacceptably dangerous situation. The Captain tried for an hour to find a position that would be better but reluctantly had to cancel our call.
What did we miss?
There were no tours offered here, although there were in the past. In 2020, we wrote the following comments which we think still apply:
1 - It is relatively unspoiled - no high rises, big condos, or giant hotel complexes; private villas and guest houses are the preferred accommodations. The shops seem to sell things actually made on the island.
2 - The beaches are small, open to the public, and easily accessed from the main road. There are few facilities but at the same time, no one is trying to sell you anything. The water is clear and shallow and perfect for swimming and snorkeling.
3 - It’s a small island with two main roads that follow the perimeter for about 20 miles and it’s almost impossible to get lost.
4 - The public bus runs around the ring road - in both clockwise and counter-clockwise directions - for a cheap way to get anywhere.
5 - It is a place of incredibly lush foliage and natural beauty. The entire center of the island is a dormant volcano and there are many marked trails for all levels of hiking ability.
Now we get an extra day at sea, and the crew is quick to come up with an alternate schedule of activities.
We were not supposed to be going to Bora Bora – ships carrying over 1,000 passengers are banned and Volendam has a capacity of about 1,400. But since we only have 1,000 guests, the captain was able to negotiate with the authorities and we were allowed entry.
We were encouraged to go out on the bow this morning at 6:00am for the sail-in to Bora Bora. We are inside the protection of the reef here, so not affected by the ocean swells.
We were not disappointed. This is the Bora Bora of travel brochures and postcards. Mount Otemanu towers over the island at 2,400 feet and a trip to the summit offers breathtaking views. A large crowd is out on deck enjoying the Bora Bora rolls, the latest variation on the Panama and Sydney rolls. We get a distant glimpse of the thatched roof huts that are luxury hotels out on the little islands called motus. Those who have not been here before are in awe.
Island drives, 4x4 adventures, catamaran cruises, close encounters with marine animals, a swim at Matira Beach, a t-shirt from the famous Bloody Mary’s Bar, and opportunities to shop for the famous Tahitian pearls await our enthusiastic passengers.
We did take the tender in to see what might be different this time around. We waited until mid-morning when it was already getting hot and decided to make the several miles walk out to Bloody Mary’s by the beach. We were totally wilted by the time we arrived at Bloody Mary's and happily paid $5 for the open style shuttle when we were ready to head back to the port. After wandering around the pier a bit, we returned to the ship for the rest of the day.
Bora Bora boasts spectacular scenery, and the water is very inviting, but it is not designed for walking around, so be sure to plan ahead.
March 29, 2024:
Moorea is our favorite French Polynesian port to date. We like to refer to it as the real Polynesia. You can walk for miles along the main road around and just see spectacular foliage, scenic views of the ocean, and the occasional home or small business.
There was another 6:00 am wake up to be out on the bow for the sail in. Today we had French Polynesia rolls, the latest variation on the theme and equally delicious with their creamy orange filling. They are the reason some people get up that early.
The scenery is so spectacular. We are in awe of the peaks here - so lush and green and steep and jagged. We anchored in Bahia d’Opunoha, one of the two beautiful bays on the north side of the island, a short tender ride to shore, where taxis and tour operators are waiting to take us on island tours, catamaran rides, snorkel/beach trips, or 4x4 adventures.
We hopped in a taxi and rode the 6 miles up to the Belvedere Lookout - one of our favorite places. The views are incredible, encompassing all the most unique peaks and the two bays far below. Our taxi left us there, so we could walk back down. The last 2 miles before that lookout are very steep and that’s the reason we didn’t walk up this time, although we have in the past. We had a chance to explore several archeological sites along the road down and visit the Agricultural School, where they make delicious fruit jams, chutneys, and refreshing sorbets and ice creams which we sampled. We also diverted from the main road to walk an interesting fitness course set up along a mile stretch of a mountain path. It conveniently brought us back to the main road closer to the water.
When we were almost back to the tender dock, we spotted the entrance to the Magic Mountain Overlook, a very steep but shorter walk to another outrageously scenic spot. We were too tired and way too hot by then to attempt it but it’s on the list for next time.
Several Guests were staying overnight at one of the resorts featuring thatched roof huts over the water. They always look so romantic and exotic, and we know they are relatively expensive, at $500 to $700 per night and up.
With 4 more port days in a row coming up, we decided to just lay low on the ship on Day 2 in Moorea, enjoying the views from the promenade deck.
Our next island is Huahine, a new place for us and another tender port. This place is even less developed than Moorea, with one big island connected by bridge to a smaller one. Our tender takes us to the small town of Maroe, the only place on either island with a suitable tender dock. We are about a 25-minute shuttle ride from there to the major town - named Fare. We left early and were on shore by 7:30 am, about an hour before the open wooden framed school buses that would become shuttles finished their morning runs. What to do?
Much to our surprise, there were not only independent tour operators waiting to take people, but there were air-conditioned rental cars right there at the dock. Armed with a list of the 12 not-to-be-missed sights, we set out to see the island in a rental car.
High on the list is the Sacred Blue-Eyed Eels that can be found in an inconspicuous stream. Locals are there to provide small fish for the tourists who love watching the eels go after the bait. Steve even got to create his own feeding frenzy using a small frozen mackerel which he tore into little pieces.
There were several viewpoints, the remains of an ancient sacred site on a white sand beach, the biggest bridge in French Polynesia, and a remarkable 40-year collection by a local resident of seashells at the Shell Museum, where we spent some time.
The shuttle stop in Fare was a busy gathering place, next to the Yacht Club, where we saw many guests stopping for the local brew. We circled the big island once and then went on to circle the smaller one, which we thought was the more beautiful of the two. There were several museums which we did not visit. We also bypassed the pearl farm, vanilla plantation, and Pareo House which sold the personalized wraps/sarongs so prevalent throughout French Polynesia.
We were very happy seeing the natural beauty, and thanks to our car, we were able to comfortably see the whole island. It was a very pleasant day in a uniquely unassuming location.
In stark contrast to Huahine is the bustling and highly developed port of Papeete, Tahiti. This is a big city in every respect - busy streets, high rises, and black pearl stores every few hundred feet along the main streets. It is not our idea of an idyllic island, which is why we were happy to be taking our Cruise Specialists guests on their final group tour of this voyage out of the city where we could absorb some of the local history and natural features of more rural Tahiti.
The Marae Arahurahu is one of the most sacred restored temples on the island. Vaipahi Gardens has a lovely waterfall and well cared for examples of the native flora on an easily navigated path. The Mara’a Fern Grotto Caves have fresh spring water pools surrounded by lush ferns overhead. We were told that Paul Gauguin often swam in these pools while he lived here.
Our fourth and perhaps most unique stop was at the beautiful colonial home of Mr. and Mrs. Roger Gowen. We had a refreshing snack of local fruit and fruit juices while we heard the history of the house and toured the spectacularly manicured garden. Situated at the end of a long private drive, the home sits right on the cliff overlooking the water. The crystal-clear swimming pool in the backyard was very inviting on this very hot day.
Back at the dock by 1:00 pm, everyone was free to spend the rest of the day, overnight, and the next day exploring the city. Many will go to the famous Papeete market, just a block away, for all kinds of locally made products and some fun atmosphere. The Bougainville Park, right next to the pier, offers a quiet oasis of gardens, ponds, and ocean views. Some will venture out for dinner tonight. We know the crew will be heading for Mc Donald’s and Burger King which are close by.
We headed back out in the afternoon to find a few geocaches, one located in a tucked away but gorgeous park about three miles north of the city. We took a taxi to Tahua Motu Ovini Park, one of the prettiest places we’ve seen on the island. It’s a great place for a picnic, with stunning views of Moorea a short distance away. The name means wild islet, but this is a beautifully maintained community facility. From there we walked a mile to the airport for the rest of our geocaches and got a taxi back to town. This was no ordinary taxi, but a limousine taxi with leather seating for 4, tinted windows, automatic doors, and air conditioning. It didn’t cost any more than a regular one, but it was a very decadent ride!
We were tired by the time we got back and made the decision to stay on board for the evening and following day.
April 3, 2024:
If you are looking for pristine waters and world class diving opportunities, Fakarava is your place. It’s just a boomerang shaped atoll about 280 miles from Tahiti, with a population of about 700. It is completely flat and as we approach it just looks like sand and trees in the incredibly blue water. There are no resorts, no high rises, no buses or taxis, no emergency services.
There is a small airport, a post office, several bars, restaurants, and markets, and local vendors selling handmade shell jewelry and other craft items.
Our tender brings us to Rotoava Village, where we find loads of bikes for rent, a few locals offering tours of the island or diving outings, and not much else. Most of the passengers are looking for places to swim and snorkel and fortunately, they don’t have to go far. A few hundred feet in either direction they will find lovely spots to just drop their towels and go in the sheltered water of the lagoon.
One of the few actual attractions on the atoll is the Topaka Lighthouse, a pyramid shaped stone structure that was used as a signal for help if there was trouble on the island. It is one of the oldest in French Polynesia and the only tall structure anywhere around. It looks nothing like a traditional lighthouse and actually has no light. In the old days they would light a fire at the top as a distress signal. We walked the two miles to it on our last visit here in the rain. Today we repeated the walk, in bright sun and intense heat. It was also a chance to see the water on the ocean side of the atoll, which is much rougher and subject to dangerous currents, but equally beautiful in its own way.
Walking in the other direction to get the only geocache on the atoll, we found ourselves at a local shop selling some unique hand-crafted fabric gifts. The owner is a transplanted Parisian who gave up her high-powered career in marketing for the simpler life of a remote island. She found her husband here, had children, and began a new craft career 18 years ago and loves it.
She told us that the heat we were experiencing was unusual for the island. Their main tourist business comes from serious divers here to explore their reefs noted for abundant sharks. We did purchase one of her creations, a small fabric bag with her original design.
It was a pleasant but very hot day, and we were happy to return to the comfort of the ship around noon.
Our remaining Sea Days will feature several special events. Last night was a costume party, which we did not attend but it looked like a pretty wild time.
Today we were invited for a Bridge Tour! They had not been giving tours routinely for a long time, so this was a wonderful surprise. We had a chance to see all the equipment with the captain and some of his officers explaining what we were seeing and answering our questions. This was an excellent experience that was much appreciated by the guests. There were also laundry tours available for those interested.
Our final port is Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas Islands. The view on arrival is stunning. Really high jagged peaks loom over us as we enter the protected lagoon. The valleys that run between the peaks are lush and secluded.
About 10 years ago, we arranged a ride up to a scenic viewpoint and picnic area at the top of one of the peaks and enjoyed a serene and beautiful 7-mile walk down, surrounded by small farms, fruit trees, flowers galore, a few horses, and almost no signs of people along the way.
There is one excursion here organized by the ship that is a scenic drive through the Taipivai Valley. No buses here - they use private SUV’s holding 4 guests and a driver. It covers some of the same ground as our 7-mile walk but continues up the valley to several small villages, temples, churches, tikis, and a black sand beach.
The tender arrival point is a small village setting with a few cafes, a traditional craft market, and friendly locals there to greet us. There are several places to visit: Tiki Tuhiva - a 36-foot-high female tiki sculpture with a smaller male warrior behind her; and the Notre Dame Cathedral, a unique shaped church built of local stone. The walk along the shore is pleasant and flat, passing beaches and viewing several lodges up in the hills. It ends rather abruptly at a rocky outcropping. We were advised not to swim here because of sharks!
Interesting historical factoid: The author Herman Melville spent several weeks here as a captive of the indigenous natives and used that experience as the inspiration for his novel Typee.
Considering the intense heat and bright sun today and the fact that we have been here 3 times in the past, we decided to admire Nuka Hiva from afar from the ship. It is spectacular.
We’ve used adjectives like spectacular, stunning, gorgeous, and beautiful quite regularly when describing many of the South Pacific Islands and you might be thinking they can’t all be that good. But yes, they can. And even though we don’t take advantage of the pristine waters and comment often about the heat and humidity, this is still one of the most beautiful parts of the world, to be enjoyed whatever way suits you.
Speaking of spectacular - we had the best sail away party ever last night as we left Nuka Hiva. It seemed the whole ship was out to take in the dramatic scenery, the perfect weather, the gorgeous sunset, and the complimentary wine and cheese! We started at 4:30 pm and at 6:00 pm when the band stopped playing, the crowd was still going strong. All the officers were there, dancing along with the guests. It was a great evening.
April 9, 2024:
Our final week at sea was a blur of activities:
- Three Mariner recognition Events that we attended because almost everyone on board is a Mariner at some level. These included an elegant lunch of poached lobster and filet mignon and a rich chocolate dessert plate!
- A final outdoor Lido poolside Event called the "Grand Fair" - a carnival at sea with country fair games, food, music, and fun.
- The "Black and White Ball" - an evening of dancing and partying in the World Stage.
- The invasion of the towel animals - hundreds of fanciful creatures created by the Housekeeping Staff and perched around the pool deck.
- Our final Cruise Specialist Cocktail Party - our last special event and a chance to wish everyone safe travels home.
- The Crew Talent Show with a hilarious composite video of many of the Crew and Staff taken throughout the Voyage.
- The Captain’s Farewell get together, with a presentation called "A City on the Sea", a video tour of many of the below deck parts of the ship.
- Chocolate and Seafood Extravaganzas - just as decadent as they sound.
Let’s recap this Voyage:
94 days, 42 different ports, 24,945.44 nautical miles traveled, with 1,048 Guests onboard and 549 Crew.
Favorite Big City: Sydney, Australia - needs at least a week to visit just the main attractions.
Favorite medium size ports: Hobart, Tasmania with its unique bohemian vibe and Devonport, suburb of Auckland, a charming village atmosphere within a big city.
Favorite Small Port: Akaroa, New Zealand - unassuming, beautiful, and a great example of why we love New Zealand.
Best shore side experience: Fabulous dinner on the wharf in Devonport. So good that we went back for lunch there the next day.
Best evening entertainment: Too many to choose, including the Grand Repertory Company and their 15 production shows, the Australian country singer, and the Sand Painter.
Favorite Onboard Personality: Our Cruise and Travel Director Daniel. What a breath of fresh air. An Englishman with a dry sense of humor and an ultra-quick wit. He was funny, informative, and so approachable. His lectures and interviews were not to be missed and we didn't. We were thrilled to find out he will be with us on the Pole-to-Pole Voyage next year.
Best Shore Excursions: A Taste of Port Lincoln, NZ; and Featherdale Wildlife Park and the Blue Mountains, from Sydney, Australia.
Favorite Food: Sushi in the Lido. Every day at lunch we were amazed at the quality, variety, taste, and beautiful display our super Chefs Mark and Joseph prepared. They knew us so well and knew we appreciated them so much, that they often had something special for us. They also prepared a dazzling variety of Asian style foods, from Indian to Indonesian. Always excellent.
Missed ports: Milford Sound and Raritonga. Weather and ocean conditions often combine to keep us away from remote locations. We are lucky it was only 2 places we had to bypass.
Surprise added port: Bora-Bora. Lots of happy Guests over this one.
Best onboard activity: Music by our BELOVED "Dance Band"- 4 talented and very personable musicians, who kept us dancing throughout the Voyage with great music. We organized a write-in campaign to hopefully get them on a few of our future long Voyages - fingers crossed.
Geocaching Report: We reached a milestone of 28,000 found caches, added two new countries (now 95), and found 714 over our 94 days - we surprised ourselves with that number!
There were too many highlights to this trip to do justice to this list. You will simply have to come and see for yourselves why this is such a special itinerary and a favorite ship.
This really was a “Grand Voyage”. The service, food, special events, gifts, relaxed atmosphere, outstanding staff and crew and entertainment all combined for a wonderful experience.
The feedback from our Cruise Specialists guests has been excellent, mostly mirroring our own opinions. We’ve had better than expected participation in our excursions. A devoted group of about a dozen visited us every Sea Day morning at Chat Time, with another dozen stopping by somewhat regularly. We always have those that only wave as they walk by and those who only come when they have a question or are looking for a cookie or second cup of coffee. We’ve enjoyed getting to know our new guests and reconnecting with old friends.
If our travels have inspired you, join us January 4, 2026, for the 2026 Grand Australia & New Zealand Voyage aboard Zaandam!
Fondly,
Wendy and Steve
Grand Australia Voyage Journal, part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3
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