Our first segment turnover brought about 120 new guests to the ship, two of which are Cruise Specialists guests. To welcome them all, Holland America had another Block Party, where we brought our wine glasses out into the hall and our Cabin Stewards filled them, and refilled them, and filled them again! We met new people in our corridor and enjoyed chatting for an hour. The Captain (in cowboy hat), Hotel General Manager, and Chief Engineer came through singing “Sweet Home Alabama.” They were very atypical cowboys, but we all had fun with it!
Brazilian Culture
One of the characteristics of a Grand Voyage is immersion into the culture of the places we visit. With 11 stops in Brazil, including a long stretch on the Amazon River, we have had a lot of time to learn about this region. There are lessons in Portuguese language, samba drumming, Capoeira martial arts, Latin aerobics, and Brazilian ballroom dancing. There are also lectures on the history, culture, and ecology of this large and diverse country. At least one local folkloric show is a must.
Amid all this Brazilian culture, we have St Patrick’s Day. An Irish Party, a Celtic Soprano for the evening show, a Corned Beef and Cabbage dinner, and a Bar Hop were the highlights of the day. And now, back to Brazil!
Rio de Janeiro
Our first stop is Rio de Janeiro, famous for the Christ the Redeemer Statue, Sugarloaf Mountain, Ipanema and Copacabana beaches, and Carnival, complete with samba dancers. Although Carnival season ended at the beginning of the month, it is still a very busy city with all these incredible sites to explore.
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The sail-in is always quite dramatic as we pass all the iconic sites on our way to the cruise ship terminal. Many of us were out at 6:30 am to enjoy the beautiful views as well as the "Rio" rolls being served on the bow. These were the latest iteration of the "Panama Canal" rolls and "Antarctic" rolls we experienced earlier in the Voyage.
Cruise Specialists Shore Excursion
We had a small group going on our half-day Cruise Specialists tour called, "Beaches of Rio and Sugarloaf."
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Then a relaxing panoramic drive to the beaches from the comfort of an air-conditioned bus came next.
Imperial Petropolis and Museum
Wendy had the day off and so she took a tour called "Imperial Petropolis and Museum." It was a very long ride on a winding but scenic mountain road to get to Petropolis. It took more than an hour and a half each way, but the destination was worth it.
Petropolis is a city about 30 miles north of Rio, which was founded by Emperor Dom Pedro II, head of Brazil’s Royal Family in the mid 1800s. The Imperial Palace, a large and elaborately decorated building, which is now a museum, once was the emperor’s home. You can see the crown jewels, the royal carriages, the elaborate and elegant window treatments, the ornate furniture, and the vast collection of paintings from that period. The manicured grounds and gardens provide a serene surrounding and protection from the bustling streets all around. A short ride down the main street is the Catedral Sao Pedro de Alcantara with stunning stained-glass windows. Just a few minutes further away, was a spectacular hotel called the Gallardin Palace, where we stopped for lunch. Gorgeous grounds and a view up to the mountains made it a delightful setting.
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And then there was the food! Brazil is famous for their churrascaria or barbecue restaurants. We were treated to this unique experience as part of our tour. We called it a moving buffet as a band of waiters brought plate after plate of yummy items for each of us to try or not as we wished. Just a few of the items we remember: creamy risotto, two kinds of seafood ceviche, grilled vegetables, tomatoes with cheese, green salad with mustard dressing, hearts of palm, fried bananas, onion rings, French fries, fried eggs with corn, shrimp in rice, baked fish with almond topping, and buttery garlic rolls. That was just the side dishes. There were more we did not recognize. The main event was the skewers of grilled meats that are brought to you and carved right on to your plate. Those included several types of sausage, chicken, pork belly, veal, chicken hearts, and more kinds of beef than we could keep track of, with various cheeses and grilling sauces. It was way more than anyone could reasonably eat - even when you asked for a little bit of something, it turned into a lot of food. Dessert was vanilla gelato; it was quite a meal!
Our second day in Rio was quiet. We took a walk early in the morning, hoping to avoid the heat and humidity, but both were already there by 8:00 am. We walked the short distance to the futuristic building at the end of the long row of terminals called the "Museum of Tomorrow." It is a unique construction of mostly glass and metal and looks like a spaceship taking off. It was closed at that hour, so we simply walked all the way around the quiet ponds that surround it, watched some local anglers trying their luck off the outermost promenade, and then returned to our lovely, air-conditioned ship.
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Armação dos Búzios
It has been over 10 years since we stopped at the port of Armação dos Búzios, Brazil. Located on a peninsula, it is known for its beaches, including several that are good for surfing. Right by the tender pier is a sandy beach with calm waters and a view of the fishing boats in the protected harbor.
We had a short day, but it was enough time to get reacquainted with this charming place. Cafés and boutiques line the street running along the water. A popular attraction is the bronze statue of a young Brigitte Bardot sitting in a green space, looking out to sea. Everyone stops for the picture opportunity. Her visit here in the 60s apparently put this place on the tourist map.
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There are trolley tours and bus tours taking visitors to see the beaches and viewpoints. There are several geological sites around the peninsula with unique rock formations that are millions of years old. We made our own path walking across the peninsula about a mile to the other side where we found a gorgeous, secluded beach called “Foca” with lots of waves crashing onto the shore. There was no one else there while we enjoyed watching the water action and finding a difficult geocache, hidden high up the rocky cliffs bordering the beach. Steve used his best mountain goat skills to make the find!
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We have a special guest on board with us. Heather is the Shore Excursion and Event Manager for Cruise Specialists in Seattle, and she is here to check out some Brazilian locations for possible future tours. She will also spend time meeting our Cruise Specialists guests and will escort an overnight excursion to the Amazon Jungle at the end of the month. We had a large turnout at our “Meet and Greet” for her on yesterday’s sea day and look forward to spending time with her during the next week.
Salvador da Bahia, Brazil
This is a very large city with almost 3 million inhabitants. Known for its mix of African and Brazilian cultures, popularizing Brazilian martial arts, and well-preserved colonial architecture.
We felt the heat and humidity today, and were glad we didn’t have a big plan, as we wilted quickly after we left the ship. It was a long walk down the pier to the terminal and out onto the busy main avenue. Passing the largest handicraft market in the city, “Mercado Modelo,” we headed instead toward the Elevador Lacerda, a modern elevator in an Art Deco structure. It connects the upper and lower cities, and we were delighted to find it was a free ride. Emerging at the top, we were treated to splendid views across the harbor and the streets below. In front of us was the historic city center featuring the Palacio Rio Branco, one of the oldest palaces in Brazil. It wasn’t very crowded today, as we wandered among a combination of ornate historic buildings like the Church of Sao Francisco and more modern sculptures and structures. Two hours was more than enough to complete a few geocaches and return to the air conditioning of the ship.
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Maceio, Brazil
Our next day was spent in Maceio. We visited here ten years ago and took the highlights tour. It was the typical stops at a Cathedral, an overlook, a market, and a view of the beaches. Today a shuttle was taking guests to the large Mercado do Artesanato, conveniently across from the popular beach areas. We weren’t really interested in shopping or swimming, but we did take the shuttle to get a glimpse of the city. It was about 20 minutes each way and became our self-directed tour of the day. Riding in air-conditioned comfort won out over roasting at the beach or in the multistory marketplace. We saw some interesting murals along the way before happily returning to the ship.
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Recife, Brazil
Our third port in a row is Recife, often called the "Venice of Brazil" for its many canals. We have been here many times and have enjoyed walking along the canals and admiring the beautiful colonial buildings. Today’s adventure involved getting an Uber to take us south of the city to the fabulous beaches that stretch on for miles. The ride took almost an hour because of heavy traffic but we couldn’t believe it only cost $9.00, even with surcharges added for the delays.
These beaches look great, have modern facilities like upscale restrooms, food kiosks, and lots of chairs and umbrellas to rent. They are clean and not overly crowded. Do you hear the “but” coming? They also have sharks! Danger signs are posted all over. We saw people in the water on the beach side of a visible reef, but only a few and only very close to the shore. It wasn’t clear if this was a year-round problem, but it certainly was enough to keep out of the water.
Across the main street that is parallel to the beaches are rows and rows of tall, narrow condo buildings - very modern and new looking. They too stretch on for miles, with almost everyone having a water view.
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There were a few geocaches along this beach-front road which we were able to retrieve before the heat sent us back to the ship. Our return Uber only cost $4.00! There were several shuttles being provided going to local shopping malls, but we passed on those. Ship tours were heading to the historic city of Olinda, up in the hills north of Recife. Cobblestone streets, colonial mansions, and panoramic views make it a desirable destination. If you stayed in the area near the ship, you might have strolled past the oldest synagogue in the three Americas, dating from 1636. Or you could wander along the many bridges that cross the canals and take in the views of the Easter egg-colored buildings as we have on previous visits. We could love this city if it were just 25 degrees cooler!
Fortaleza, Brazil
In contrast to Recife is Fortaleza. With a population of over 2 million, it is the 4th largest city in Brazil and famous for its exceptionally long coastline and beautiful beaches.
We are docked at a futuristic terminal several miles from anything worth seeing. A free shuttle takes us to the Mercado Central, about a 30-minute ride. We pass by rows of huge high-rise buildings across from the beaches, but they are older and far less well maintained than what we saw in Recife. We considered walking from the Shuttle stop to beaches or to the Metropolitan Cathedral (with its twin spires, stained glass windows, and room for 5,000 people!), but the heat of the day and busy streets convinced us to pass.
We instead entered the Mercado Central, a 5-story circular market filled with an overwhelming selection of hand crafts, leather goods, lace and embroidery products, clothing, souvenirs, and a variety of food courts and small restaurants. We had purchased some small colorful table mats here a few years ago that we really liked, and finding them again, we bought more. With no other missions, we returned on the next shuttle with a half dozen others.
We now have three days at sea as we cross the Equator and approach the Amazon River. And we are not even halfway on this unique journey.
Fondly,
Wendy and Steve
Continue Reading:
A Bon Voyage! | Costa Rica & Panama | Ecuador and Northern Peru | Wendy's Adventures in Peru | Steve's Adventure in Machu Picchu | Arica and San Antonio, Chile | Robinson Crusoe & Southern Chile | More Chile & Argentina | Antarctica | Falkland Islands | Montevideo & Punta del Este | Brazil | The Amazon | Salvation Islands | Arriving in Africa | Canary Islands & Morocco | Gibraltar and Barcelona | Spain & Portugal | France, Belgium and The Netherlands | Scotland and Norway | More Norway | Iceland | Greenland | Canada & New England | Voyage Summary
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