Follow along with Cruise Specialists Voyage Hosts, Steve and Wendy Bodenheimer on Holland America’s 94-day Grand Australia & New Zealand Cruise aboard Volendam.
December 29, 2023:
The Bodenheimers are on the move again.
Not that we have just stayed home. We were at sea for 3 weeks on the Zaandam, traveling the Canada/New England route between Montreal and Boston. And now we are ready for a long anticipated Grand Australia and New Zealand Cruise, beginning on December 31. In addition to those two main countries, we have multiple stops in Hawaii and the South Pacific and many leisurely days at sea.
We fly to San Diego to meet our next home away from home for 94 days, Holland America’s Volendam. She is the same ship we sailed on for our Grand South America trip last year and one of our favorites for her smaller size, spacious cabins, and friendly staff.
A dozen years ago, we circumnavigated Australia and New Zealand on this same ship and have revisited both countries multiple times as part of several World Voyages. But this is a comprehensive itinerary, including some less often visited ports and many worthy of repeat visits.
We have an enthusiastic group of about 75 Cruise Specialists guests, some who are normally World Cruisers but decided to join this unique voyage instead.
Holland America has suggested they will be restoring some of the activities and features that will make this Grand Voyage “Grand”: more themed dinners with decorations, guest chefs, expanded menus, more guest performers, the return of popular items like printed port maps and printed news digests, more themed parties, among other things.
What are we looking forward to?
- New ports, including Mystery Island, Noumea, Timaru, Port Lincoln, and Huahine.
- Komodo Island to see the dragons again.
- The beauty of Milford Sound.
- Any and all stops in New Zealand.
- A return to Fremantle without a pandemic.
- Some favorite small places like Fakarava, Kangaroo Island and Waitangi.
We are excited to begin this journey and will share highlights as we go!
January 8, 2024:
Aloha from the Pacific Ocean!
New Year's Day in San Diego was an excellent time to walk around the bayfront promenades and downtown area with little traffic and few people. Midway Museum was right outside our door as was the beautifully restored Star of India sailing schooner. The famous sculpture of a sailor kissing a nurse called Unconditional Surrender or the Kissing Statue is just down the road. The buildings and parks are beautiful.
On our second free day, we visited the University of San Diego Campus, a stunningly beautiful facility set high up with gorgeous views all around. Then we walked to Old Town, the Gaslight District, and Balboa Park, home of the San Diego Zoo, the Air and Space Museum and the Spanish Village. These are all worthy of much more time than we had to spend.
Returning to our hotel, we met up with some of our Cruise Specialists Guests who were staying there too and to link up with our good friend Susan Rios, Director of Sales for Cruise Specialists. She made a special trip from San Francisco to organize a meet and greet for anyone available the day before we sailed. It was fun to meet with old friends and new guests we hope will become our friends too.
Embarkation the next morning was fast, easy, and earlier than expected. We did our usual tour to see what was new. A highlight was the newly restored dance floor in the Crow’s Nest with its own dedicated band. That doubles the dance venues - a major improvement in our opinion.
We have 5 days at sea on the way to Hawaii. As everyone settles in for the voyage, we are being immersed in our first group of ports in Hawaii. There are classes in lei making, hula dancing and ukulele, presented by a group of Polynesian cultural ambassadors. There are lectures on various aspects of Hawaiian culture and even an hour of Aloha Sunset Music.
The daily schedules are jam packed with activities. Classes in pickleball, bridge, tai chi, crafts, creative writing, watercolor painting, and something new called Tech for Travelers compete with beer tastings, poker tournaments, and team trivia. Then there are the sewing and knitting groups, the mahjong players, the book club, and the religious services. Boredom is not an option.
The music options are plentiful starting with the String Trio in the afternoons, the Cocktail Pianist between sets of the Ocean Band, the Dance Band most nights with three or four sets in the Crow’s Nest, and the popular piano bar entertainer also doing 3 or 4 sets an evening. Those are in addition to the Main Stage shows which so far have included an Australian comedian and the excellent Cantare quartet. Although they are doing shows we have seen before, the singers are different. This foursome is excellent.
In the dancing department, there is an actual dance instructor holding 2 classes each sea day, and a ballroom dance hour with a live band following his afternoon session! This is so much better than we were expecting.
We’ve already had 2 special events. The first was our Block Party, where everyone steps out of their cabin to meet their neighbors. We brought the glasses, and our Cabin Stewards poured the wine, and continued to pour the wine! They also served trays of delicious finger foods - as much as any of us could eat. Ship officers and staff passed through the halls to say hello and it was a delightful party atmosphere.
That was followed the next day by a very large Mariner welcome reception held out by the Lido pool. Once again, drinks and food were flowing freely with officers and staff mingling with guests.
Last night we returned to our cabin to find a bed full of gifts. We each received a messenger bag, a sturdy canvas tote, some chocolates, a battery charger, a safari hat, and a small leather card holder. That is in addition to the beautifully embroidered canvas tote and passport holder/battery charger provided by Cruise Specialists to all our Guests.
We are impressed with the efforts to make this Voyage “Grand”. We are off to an excellent start, and it is only day 4.
January 13, 2024:
We had three incredible days in Hawaii, starting with an overnight in Honolulu. We've tried to get to Pearl Harbor and the Arizona Memorial on several past trips, but never made it to them – third time was a charm!
The Pearl Harbor Historic Sites Visitors Center is a beautiful complex with all kinds of memorabilia, artifacts, and films from World War II and the bombing of Pearl Harbor. We took the shuttle ride out to Ford Island to tour the Battleship Missouri, nicknamed "Mighty Mo". A half-hour guided tour was included with our admission and was well worth the time. We also spent time wandering on our own up to the Bridge and down to the lower decks (bow to aft), where the sailors lived and worked. The Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum is also on the island, home to over 50 different planes which one could see up close. A short boat ride took us out to the Arizona Memorial. It was a wonderful day of exploration and history - highly recommended for any visit to Honolulu.
Day 2 was a city day. We walked into the downtown area, toward the Ala Moana Mall, home to hundreds of upscale stores. Not any place we would be shopping but fun to look at. The mall has a giant food court, with all kinds of inviting prepared foods for easy take out. Leaving there with a picnic lunch in hand, we headed over one block to the wonderful parks that line the waterfront. We eventually wound up at Waikiki Beach and the Hilton Hawaiian Village Resort. After all the miles we walked, we took an Uber ride back to the port, saving some energy for our following day in Hilo.
In Hilo, we took a ship tour to transport us out of town. It was a small group of 23 in a very comfortable minivan with an excellent guide who was also the driver. Our first stop was Rainbow Falls, named for the rainbows often seen there when the sunlight conditions are right. Then we were off to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, home to the Kilauea Crater, located about 4,000 feet above sea level. Although it is not actively erupting, it provides some dramatic scenery from several different viewpoints. The most interesting stop was a chance to walk through a lava flow tube that runs under the ground in the park. It's about 600 feet of damp, dark tunnel, with roots growing down from the forest above. Very cool to think it was once the path of molten lava. The park encompasses hundreds of acres with an extensive network of trails if one wanted to hike. You can even hike down and across the crater on an 8-mile round trip adventure. We could see people doing that as we stopped at the rim! You can also make the drive up to the top of the mountain at about 11,000 feet, where we could see snow.
Among the distinctive aspects of a Grand Voyage are the Special Events. We've already had an Island Dream Party, where everyone wore their best Hawaiian shirts and dresses and danced out on the open decks to both traditional hula music, as well as beach party tunes. Tonight is Event #2 - the Volendam Ball! The Main Stage is turned into a ballroom with one of the bands playing and some of the seating removed to open up the dance floor. It's a formal night, so that should add a note of elegance to the evening. Of course, there are many who choose to avoid fancy dress and they have other activities they can participate in.
We've had several more excellent shows the past few days. There is a new show company on board called the Grand Repertory. It is composed of 4 singers and 4 dancers, performing high energy routines around a specific theme. Their first production was called "In the Mood" and covered the music and dances of the Swing Era. They were very good, and a few of the performers were familiar to us. Best of all, they have 15 different shows, so we have something new to look forward to.
But back to the Volendam Ball! The Main Stage was decorated with 3-foot giant white artificial flowers made of leather. They were beautiful and elegant. The Captain officially opened the ball with a champagne glass tower and the students from the dance classes gave a short waltz performance. The balcony was full of onlookers and guests on the main floor were enjoying the music. It was a nicely arranged party and very well attended.
Our next port was Kirinamati, also called Christmas Island, in Kiribati. This will be a new place for us, always exciting. And it is small enough that there are no tours. What will people do there? We'll find out tomorrow.
January 17, 2024:
Kiritimati or Christmas Island is an atoll in the Pacific Ocean, part of the Republic of Kiribati. It has a population of about 7,000 people and is famous for bone fishing and scuba diving. It was also the site of nuclear testing in the 1950's and 60's. This was not a new country for us as we have previously been to Fanning Island which is part of this same Republic. The water is a beautiful blue and the beaches looked clean and inviting. We strolled along the shore taking in the beauty before heading back to the ship.
Locals came on board and operated a small market on the Lido Deck. Besides the typical shell jewelry, their main product was natural Pacific sea salt. There were dozens of people lined up to buy postcards and stamps from this exotic place.
The Special Events are continuing at a rapid pace. Yesterday at lunch, there was Cake Me Away, a special selection of fancy cakes. They were beautifully decorated and oh so rich. For many people, lunch started with dessert.
The King Neptune ceremony is today - that maritime tradition to initiate sailors crossing the Equator for the first time. It is usually a fun experience. And at lunch we enjoyed an Ice Cream Social - many flavors and all the toppings. Tonight is the Seafood boil, where you are given a giant pot filled with all kinds of fish and shellfish. Tomorrow night is the first Cellar Master Dinner with a special menu and perfectly paired wines.
January 20, 2024:
Our sea days have developed into a pleasant pattern of activities.
Mornings from 8:30 am to 11:00 am are spent in our Chat Time area at the Piano Bar. A nice size section is roped off as a private space and our guests drop by for coffee and cookies, a visit with us and other guests, or to ask questions. We also try to make it to the gym most days and when weather is permitting, to go for a walk on the outside decks before lunch.
At 3:00 pm there is an advanced dance class where Steve is one of the few men who volunteer to partner with the dozen plus women anxious to dance with anyone. An hour of ballroom dance music follows at 4:00 pm, where we get in our dancing for the day, followed by some down time before our 7:30 pm dinner and possibly a show to follow at 9:00 pm.
As busy as this time seems, there are those with many more things on their schedules or at the other extreme, staying on the ship every day reading books and relaxing.
Our Cruise and Travel Director Daniel had been presenting very entertaining talks on the places we are visiting. They are not exactly port lectures. They are more about history and culture. For example, yesterday he talked about American Samoa, our next port. The question to be answered was how American is American Samoa. They have the US Dollar as their currency, speak English, and have an abundance of fast food and US style stores. They have the only US National Park in the Southern Hemisphere. At the same time, their society is rooted in the concept of family and their leaders are chosen based on who does the most to protect and preserve the family units. They honor their deceased relatives by burying them in the front yard, complete with elaborate gravestones. It still looks very much like a South Pacific Island, rather than a city in the US.
We docked in the small town of Pago Pago (pronounced Pango Pango) on the island of Tutuila, one of the seven that make up American Samoa. We had not been here before and were anxious to see the island. There are taxis and family-owned buses that can take you to some of the tourist spots - Two Dollar Beach, Flower Pot Rock, Camel Rock, or the National Park of American Samoa. The Fagatoga Market is just down the street from the dock, as is the Haydon Museum.
We opted for a small family bus, providing a 3-hour tour. With a couple of guests, we set out for what turned out to be a great tour. We saw all of the attractions mentioned above plus the massive Star Kist Tuna Canning Facility that employs about 2,000 people in two shifts on the island.
Our next port was only 40 miles away in Western Samoa. The city of Apia is the Capital and only city in Samoa, on the island of Upolu. Unlike American Samoa, which is a territory of the US, Western Samoa is an independent nation. In outward appearances, they seem very similar.
January 24, 2023:
We had two stops in Fiji on opposite sides of the island, Viti Levu. Fiji is actually an archipelago made up of over 300 islands, many uninhabited, with rugged landscapes, coral reefs, and palm-lined beaches. If you have ever had Fiji Water in the square plastic bottle with the bright pink flower, this is where it comes from. It is their main export.
The universal greeting here is "Bula," literally meaning life but used as hello, welcome, and to wish you good health. Dozens of strangers said “Bula” to us as we walked along the streets in Suva, the bustling capital city of this island nation. They are so friendly!
Our morning was spent on a tour with our Cruise Specialists group for a Fijian Cultural Exchange. We drove to the village of Togalevu, where 115 people, including dozens of children, enjoy a simple, happy life. They showed us a variety of aspects of their lives, including Kava, a plant-based drink used for relaxation like we would use coffee or tea, but more potent. They use coconuts for everything from cooking to making rope. We were treated to songs and musical performances, were served homemade pastries and locally grown fruits. They have smart phones, laptops and access to college education but their homes are simple and their clothing made of traditional colorful prints. They value their families, their religion (mostly Catholic), and Rugby! It was an entertaining and enlightening experience.
Overnight, we sailed around the island to arrive in Lautoka, the second largest city and a place we have visited before. We walked into town that morning and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing on board.
We had another big theme night party out on the pool deck. It's called Glamping Out - as in "glamour camping". There was a canoe with a staff person in the pool, some electric campfire logs around the deck, plenty of drinks, and lots of outdoorsy food like smores, toasted marshmallows, hot dogs, cotton candy, and a traveling ice cream cart. The band played crowd-pleasing music. While they were on break, there were campfire stories read by a few of the Entertainment Staff. Everyone seemed to be having a good time and enjoyed it.
And then there was the remarkable Australian entertainer we saw last night! He is a "sand painter." He makes amazing pictures intended to tell a story using only sand and his fingers. He works in a rectangular shaped light box about 2 feet by 3 feet with a projector that shows his images on the big screen. It was mesmerizing, complete with mood music to accompany each piece. He became well known after a successful appearance on Australia's Got Talent. He formed his various sand paintings at lightning speed, it was so unique and well worth seeing.
Bula!!
January 28, 2024:
Today, Mystery Island! We've read several different and conflicting stories about the origin of the name, "Mystery Island." We don't have a definitive answer and it probably doesn't matter - it's a unique place no matter what you call it.
We are on the island of Anelghowhat, also known as Inyeug, meaning small island. It is part of the country of Vanuatu in the southwestern Pacific Ocean, consisting of 13 principal and many smaller islands about 1,100 miles east of Australia.
Mystery Island is actually uninhabited, except for the days that cruise ships come to visit. Then locals come from surrounding islands to offer boat and snorkel tours, beach massages, crafts, food, and drinks. This is a very small place, completely flat, with sandy paths going all the way around for about a mile loop. It is an easy place to snorkel almost anywhere right off the path. A large grassy airstrip runs down the middle of the island. It's hard to tell if it is used.
We saw local children singing and playing musical instruments and a few popular tourist picture opportunities. One could rent cabanas or beach chairs, but most of the people we saw simply dropped their possessions by the shore and walked into the water. We heard the snorkeling was great. Since we were not planning on snorkeling or swimming, we made our way back to the ship happy to have logged a new country.
Our next 2 days were spent in New Caledonia, a South Pacific archipelago and overseas territory of France. First stop is Easo on the island of Lifou, the largest of what are known as the Loyalty Islands. Excursions offered here include a visit to a vanilla plantation or botanic gardens, forest walks, cave and grotto exploration, and of course, a beach visit with panoramic drive. A large palm-lined beach fans out in both directions from the main dock where Guests could simply put down a towel and jump in.
We took a walk down the main road and saw an interesting old Church, some traditional grass roofed huts, and lots of beautiful flowers along the roadside. It was a pleasant, flat walk but it was getting hot so we decided to returned to the ship early.
Our final stop before heading to Australia is Noumea, the Capital of New Caledonia. Situated on the island of Grand Terre, it is a city of almost 100,000 residents, a blend of French and native Kanak influences. The tours offered here are a diverse mix: the Tchou Tchou Train (a guided trolley tour through the city); a Segway experience in a zoological park; a visit to the indigenous people's cultural center; an aquarium; a beach trip; or a historical trip through the penal colony history of New Caledonia. We opted for our typical walking tour around the city.
Easo is a beautiful village in New Caledonia. It appears to be quite upscale with yachts of all sizes filling the massive marinas along the shore. The buildings are modern and the landscaping lush and well-manicured. The shoreline is spectacular - paved walkways, inspiring views, and family-oriented beaches. They are having a problem with deadly box jellyfish invading the local waters, so many beaches are closed. They have, however, set up special nets at one large beach in Lemon Bay, which has made that beach safe for swimming. It did look quite inviting as we passed by.
We are not shoppers, but we were told prices are more like Paris than the South Pacific and bargaining is considered rude. We did explore parts of the downtown, including the Cathedral and a massive totem pole called "Mwâ Kâ". But we were happiest walking the promenade along the Bay of the Orphanage, where a strong breeze helped keep us reasonably cool. It had been an eight mile walk to the end of the peninsula.
Two days at sea before we reach Brisbane, our first of 18 stops in Australia over the next five weeks. We have so much to look forward to!
Fondly,
Wendy and Steve
Grand Australia Voyage Journal, part 2 | Grand Australia Voyage Journal, part 3
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