Follow along with Cruise Specialists Voyage Hosts, Steve and Wendy Bodenheimer on Holland America’s 94-day Grand Australia & New Zealand Cruise aboard Volendam.
March 15, 2024:
Land ho!!! And what beautiful land it is. The sail-in to Port Chalmers was just a taste of the special landscapes we will see on our travels up the Eastern coast of New Zealand.
This is the gateway to the historic city of Dunedin, although it does have a charm of its own. Shuttles were offered to Dunedin, which many Guests took advantage of. Or they took tours out of town to see the dramatic Taieri Gorge by train or the imposing Larnach Castle with its manicured gardens.
We had a wonderful day with some of our Cruise Specialists Guests on a visit to Larnach Castle, along with High Tea. Our guide decided to show us all around Dunedin first. We stopped at the historic Dunedin Railway Station, the eight-sided plaza in the Central Business District called "The Octagon", the University of Otago campus, St Paul’s Cathedral, Speights Brewery, several lookouts, and Baldwin Street, the steepest street in the world per The Guinness Book of World Records.
Larnach Castle is actually a very large mansion which has been completely restored along with its beautiful gardens. We had a tour of the inside as well as a private Haggis ceremony performed by a very entertaining Scotsman, and a lavish high tea with many varieties of finger sandwiches, scones, and delicate pastries to enjoy with our tea or coffee. It was much more than we could eat but we loved that it was served outdoors in a private tent. We had free time to roam the grounds before returning to Port Chalmers where most of us took a quick walk around this small town just to see what was there. It is quite hilly and some of the sites, like the Lady Thorn Rhododendron Dell, the Iona Church, and the Captain Scott Memorial were difficult to get to.
Our next port was a new one for us - the town of Timaru. There were many long tours leaving from here to visit scenic lakes, mountains, and the sheep stations of the high country. We would rarely be up for an 8 or 9-hour tour, so we passed on those in favor of checking out this small town on our own. We were not disappointed.
We started what turned out to be an 11-mile walk at Caroline Bay Beach. Very close to the pier, it boasts a long, easy to negotiate boardwalk, and a charming park-like setting complete with glorious rose garden. Wandering into the downtown we strolled the large Botanic Gardens. Even though most of the flowering plants are done for the season, it was a serene and lovely place to walk. Then it was on to Hector’s Coastal Walk - miles of gravel paths with wild foliage, thousands of birds, and great views of the water. We stopped a local woman to ask for directions to get to the entrance of the Walk and she insisted on driving us to it. That is hospitality! We could have walked many more miles on this track but retraced our steps to check out the center of town.
It was about time for a cold beer and the Ale House, adjacent to the Visitors Center, was just the right place. We were enticed by the musicians playing on the outdoor patio and met up with some friends from the ship for a pleasant interlude. A small market had been set up for the ship passengers with a nice selection of local merchandise. From there we took the free shuttle back to the ship.
We found it to be a very welcoming town that is definitely worth a visit.
Sometimes, if you are lucky, you come across a place that speaks to you, that feels so comfortable and beautiful that you want to experience it all. Akaroa was such a place for us today.
Many of our fellow passengers were anxious to get to Christchurch, the third largest city in New Zealand. The earthquake that struck that wonderful city in 2011 destroyed not only many of the historic buildings but also their port, so Lyttleton and Akaroa have become the ports for Christchurch. Lyttleton is about a half hour away, but Akaroa is 90 minutes by car or tour bus, with no trains, Ubers, or other options for independent travel in the short time we had. Since we had not seen Akaroa before, we decided to stay and explore.
What a perfect little town. With a population of under 700, we weren’t expecting much, but that is the beauty of it. The scenery and views are amazing at every turn. The main street is full of interesting shops, restaurants, art galleries, and historic buildings. Even with the ship passengers and local tourists out in force, it never seemed too crowded.
There are some very special places to visit. Walking along Beach Street you come to the Akaroa Historic Lighthouse which was cut up into three pieces and put back together in a local cemetery. Once you leave Beach Street, which runs along the water, it’s up into the hills. We got our workout today, heading up to the historic cemeteries, sacred sites, and historic monuments. We walked through the Gardens of Tane, which advertise themselves as a place of peace and shade, birdsong, and mystery. So true on all counts. We passed through residential neighborhoods and met locals who were very interested in our ship and our Voyage. We learned this is a popular place for Christchurch residents to have holiday cottages. We can definitely see the appeal.
Then it was back down to the waterfront for coffee and a visit to the distillery that makes Hector’s Gin, named for the unique dolphins that populate the waters here. We picked up some samples for cocktails later aboard the ship.
Our final big stop of the day was at the Giant’s House, named by a little girl who saw it from a distance and thought it was so big, a giant must live there. It isn’t actually that big, but it is one of the most unique spots we have ever seen. It is the home of modern artist and sculptor Josie Martin and is a sculpture mosaic garden and contemporary art gallery. She has been working for 22 years on creating the concrete mosaic sculptures that decorate her house and gardens. If you are familiar with the work of Antonio Gaudi and Park Guell in Barcelona, you will have some idea of what this property looks like, on a much smaller scale though. It is fun, whimsical, startling, surreal, and flamboyant all at once.
We really loved Akaroa for its beauty and peace and welcoming attitude. No big city could make us that happy. Those that went to the big city missed an opportunity to experience a special place.
Back to big cities tomorrow as we arrive in Wellington, capital of New Zealand. Its nickname is Windy Wellington - we’re hoping it does not live up to its reputation.
March 17, 2024:
It’s definitely back to the big city today in Wellington. We are docked in an industrial port and pedestrians are not permitted to walk in the area. So, the city provided frequent shuttles to take people downtown.
We are now on the very southern end of the North Island of New Zealand, getting warmer as we head closer to the Equator.
Those who chose to go downtown were able to visit several iconic sites: The Beehive, the parliament building that looks just like its name; the Te Papa Museum, the national museum and art gallery; the Cable Car - actually a funicular that travels up the side of a hill; or the Wellington Botanic Gardens, 61 acres of protected forest and native flora.
Those heading out on tours visited Lord of the Rings film locations, cruised around Wellington Harbor, or made a trip to the Zealandia Wildlife Sanctuary to see some of New Zealand’s most endangered species.
We did none of the above. With a small group of our Cruise Specialists Guests, we visited Shenandoah, a working farm or station as they are called here, run by a 4th generation Kiwi named Simon. Simon recounted the history of the property, including the years during World War II when it was commandeered as a US Marines training base. He has hundreds of pieces of memorabilia from that era, including a restored Jeep, Harley Davidson motorcycles, rifles, bayonets, and ammunition, all preserved in a private museum on his property.
We were treated to snacks of homemade bread made by his 93-year-old mother, cheese made by his sister, and sausage made by him and his partner, Claire - along with a cup of tea enjoyed in their garden with views overlooking the inlet below.
We toured the gardens, visited up close with their long horn cows, and listened to Simon’s stories of his family going back to his great grandfather.
Another beautiful city is Napier. It is known as the Art Deco Capital of the World, and we discovered why.
In 1931, an earthquake destroyed most of the city. They decided to rebuild it in the style of the 1930’s and have created a very successful and unique profile. Vintage cars, including owners in vintage clothing, are perched throughout the central business district, especially at the Visitor’s Center. They are eager to talk about their cars and their city! So many beautiful buildings boast authentic art deco architecture. Stores are selling the clothing, jewelry, and accessories of the era.
We had a wonderful walk along the waterfront on the path they call the Marine Parade that is lined with Norfolk Pines. We passed the National Aquarium of New Zealand; a lovely area called the Sunken Garden, still ablaze with colorful blooms; the iconic Six Sisters - 6 houses that survived the earthquake and are now a popular attraction; and the Hawkes’s Bay Museum and Art Gallery. We also managed to get ourselves up the very steep hill near the National War Memorial Center for a commanding look out over the harbor.
It was lunchtime and so beautiful out, we had to find a place to have a snack and some of the wines this region is famous for. We stopped at a restaurant with outdoor seating and enjoyed some yummy Green lipped mussels, fabulous fried calamari, and some of the excellent local wines.
Not wanting to rush back, we strolled along the sandy beach for a while and then retraced some of our earlier walk back to the Aquarium to pick up the mandatory shuttle.
It was an excellent day.
Tauranga is next as we continue North along the Eastern coast. The sail-in is quite dramatic as you see Mt Maunganui at the end of the peninsula, looming over the town. You can walk all the way up to the summit or all the way around the base on well-marked trails. We have done both in the past. We were planning a walk up, but the last few days have caught up with us and we decided to just do the circle and then head over to the beaches and shopping areas.
It is a very upscale community with expensive real estate, commanding views and a dazzling array of interesting shops and restaurants. New Zealanders do a great job of keeping beautiful green spaces and this place is no exception.
Tours from here travel to Rotorua to see the thermal activity of erupting geysers, mud pools, and hot geothermal waters. You could also experience an authentic Maori village, with traditional ceremonies and the traditional hangi feast cooked in an underground pit. You can learn about growing the kiwi fruit in the kiwi capital of the world or visit a glow worm cave or bathe in a local hot spring. We have been fortunate to do most of those things on past visits.
The weather was perfect in the mid 70’s for our walk around the mountain. It is a scenic and easy trail where we encountered large groups of young, very well-behaved school children out on class trips. On our continuing walk through one of the residential streets, we came upon a gigantic 500-year-old tree that is being protected and repaired from damage it suffered during the last earthquake in 2011. It is so big and spread out, it needs structural support to keep from breaking apart. It is quite humbling to see this gentle giant.
Three more days in New Zealand. Never enough time.
March 19, 2024:
Auckland is the epitome of the big city experience in New Zealand. It has a little of everything and fortunately we had two full days to enjoy it. With perfect weather in the 70’s and sunny skies, we think we made good use of the time.
It is easy to see why it is called the City of Sails, with sailing vessels of every shape and size lining the harbor. This is the home of the Americas Cup and visitors can take a tour that includes a ride on one of those vessels. Alternatively, if you are a serious rugby fan, take the All Blacks tour to learn about their championship team. The National Maritime Museum, Sea Life Aquarium, Auckland Art Gallery, and Stardome Planetarium are all easily accessible as well.
We set out early on day one to explore the city from our centrally located dock. Heading up Queen Street, we walked by the iconic Sky Tower, the tallest structure in the southern hemisphere. We passed up the opportunity to do a base jump from the top!!! - or a walk along the edge with a safety harness!!! We know a few from our ship did make the jump.
Our destination was the Auckland Domain, a 185-acre park situated on the remains of a volcano. It is home to the Auckland War Memorial Museum which sits dramatically up at the top, surrounded by beautiful grounds full of gardens, monuments, sculpture, play spaces, and tranquil trails. One especially lovely spot is the Wintergarden Pavilion, with two Victorian era glass buildings filled with gorgeous plants, a sunken garden, and a lush fernery.
We had a peaceful walk around there but had to get back to meet our Cruise Specialists guests for an afternoon tour to Devonport, an upscale village directly across the harbor from Auckland City. A 24-passenger bus was perfect for our group and after a drive through city traffic, we were quickly transported to Devonport. Our excellent guide/driver gave us an extensive tour of the whole North Shore, with its very pricey real estate. He took us all the way to the top of Mount Victoria for 360-degree views over the city. Most of us chose to stay in Devonport before taking the ferry back to the city.
It was late afternoon by the time our tour finished, so we were ready for a glass of wine. We decided to stop at a restaurant called "Devon on the Wharf" where we had had a drink several years ago. This time we stayed for dinner and had delicious grilled octopus and slow roasted lamb, which were so good - a perfect end to our day.
We did enjoy Devonport and decided to return the next day by ferry to explore further. A long walk through the area called the North Head, home to the Maungauika Historic Reserve, gave us our exercise for the day. It is the site of defenses that were placed to protect Auckland from feared Russian invasions. Fortunately, that never happened. But you can still see some of the guns, tunnels, searchlights, and battery placements on a series of loop trails - and of course, the views are spectacular. Returning to the village, it was conveniently lunch time and our favorite restaurant from the previous night was serving that wonderful octopus and lamb - so we did it all again.
Auckland has a very efficient ferry system, heavily used by commuters from Devonport and other suburbs. We enjoyed the ride, which is only 10 minutes and a very comfortable way to get across the bay. One other destination that is popular is the island of Waiheke, a 40-minute ferry ride from Auckland. It is known for its pristine beaches and 30 boutique wineries. Sounds like a fun day trip for a future visit - perfect when we have an overnight.
Our very last stop in New Zealand is actually where New Zealand started. We are in the Bay of Islands, an area of 140 islands, many uninhabited but all beautiful to look at as we sail through them. Waitangi, our destination port, is the place where the 1840 treaty between Maori chiefs and the British Crown became the basis of modern New Zealand.
We arrived here by tender, next to a small park-like area where the historic treaty grounds can be explored. A short walk or shuttle ride takes you to the town of Paihia with its three sandy beaches and numerous opportunities for scenic cruises, deep sea fishing, and every water activity you can think of. Nice shops and restaurants line the main street. A short drive away is Haruru Falls, where the Waitangi River flows into a beautiful lagoon.
Today we chose to take another ferry from Paihia to the village of Russell, a scenic 20-minute ride away. What was once a lawless trading center inhabited by whalers, merchants, adventurers, and convicts is now an upscale vacation destination. Its attractions include Christ Church - the oldest church in New Zealand - and Flagstaff Hill, a challenging uphill walk to the flagpole and historic monument at the top. Steve made it to the top. Wendy pooped out about two thirds of the way up.
Lovely colonial homes are now hotels and guest houses. Lots of cafes, coffee shops, and boutique clothing shops line the waterfront and the adjoining streets. We enjoyed our walk here but returned to Paihia for a lunchtime snack and a cold beer on a relaxing outside deck by the water. We thought about walking back to the ship but ultimately the shuttle won as the cumulative effects of 9 port days in a row caught up with us.
This is the end of our New Zealand visit. We now head back east toward Tonga and French Polynesia and back to very warm weather as we approach the equator again.
We have really enjoyed our New Zealand experience and would love to come and stay for a while. You have to love a country that values and protects its parks, waterfronts, and natural outdoor spaces; keeps every town and city clean; honors its history and preserves its native culture; and makes great wine!
What were the highlights? Discovering Akaroa and Timaru, and rediscovering Devonport.
Fondly,
Wendy and Steve
Grand Australia Voyage Journal, part 1 | Grand Australia Voyage Journal, part 2
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