As we made our way toward Italy, our first major event on board was the Volendam Ball. Held in the World Stage, a beautiful new portable dance floor was installed in the middle of the room. Hundreds of guests attended and even though most of them didn’t dance, it was a crowded floor. No matter, we all made space for each other and had fun dancing with the Officers, as well as our partners. Wendy was lucky enough to grab the Captain, Hotel General Manager, Cruise and Travel Director, and Head Housekeeper for a dance each. Steve had dances with our Event Coordinator, Future Cruise Consultant, Entertainment Director, and Executive Assistant.
Livorno
We decided to take the ship transfer with two stops, in Pisa for 1.5 hours, and in Florence for 3 hours. It’s not much time but having been to both cities, it’s an opportunity to get reacquainted with some of the highlights.
Pisa
We walked to Miracle Square from the bus stop. We were able to see the Leaning Tower, the Duomo, the Baptistry, and the Monumental Cemetery on a very quick tour and still had time to get a nearby geocache.
Florence
We enjoyed a walk along the Arno River to our meeting point in the Piazza Santa Croce and had almost 4 hours to wander the city. And wander we did. The Ponte Vecchio was packed with shoppers and walkers, admiring the numerous jewelry shops selling gorgeous and expensive gold. The Piazza del Duomo was up next. There is so much beautiful architecture and statuary to admire throughout the city. The Uffizi Gallery is home to famous paintings by Botticelli, Michaelangelo, and da Vinci to name a few. The Accademia Gallery has the original “David” and the Santa Croce Church is the burial site of Michaelangelo and Galileo. Wonderful bakeries, pizza cafes, and trattorias offered homemade pastas and breads as we walked. And there is gelato galore around the city. We only got the briefest taste of this fascinating city, but we felt we made good use of our time.
Pisa and Florence are the two main attractions accessible from the port of Livorno, but there are other smaller towns deserving of attention. On day two, Steve and Wendy went in separate directions.
Lucca
Steve wasn’t interested in a full day tour, so he headed out for a half day to the village of Lucca. High up in the hills of Tuscany, Lucca is known for its well-preserved medieval walls and historic city center. A 1.5-hour walking tour traveled narrow streets and alleyways, beautiful squares and highlighted several special towers. Torre delle Ore at 50 meters tall is the highest of 130 towers in the town and Torre Guinigi has big oak trees growing on top! The Piazza dell’Anfiteatro is built on the remains of an ancient Roman amphitheater. And with an hour of free time, who could resist the bustling market selling all kinds of specialty food items like olives and sundried tomatoes or the vast assortment of sweet pastries paired perfectly with a steaming cappuccino.
Returning to the port, he hopped on the shuttle to take a short look at the town of Livorno. There were many long and narrow apartment blocks crammed with parked cars. A distinctive feature of the city is the canals lined with private boats. It is a pleasant and scenic walk along the canals. And then the rain started, sending him back to the ship by midafternoon.
San Gimignano & Siena
Wendy also went off to the beautiful hills of Tuscany with a group of about 40. The first stop was the walled city of San Gimignano, famous for its medieval towers, 13th century walls, and a spectacular hilltop location. The bus climbed the narrow winding roads for several miles before leaving us to walk the remaining uphill to reach the arched entrance. It was early in the morning and the shops were just opening. They were so inviting - selling leather, pottery, fabrics, elegant clothing, even one devoted to truffles. We were pointed at the “world’s best” gelato, which many of us had to try. We were fortunate to be among the first groups there, making the walk through the complex a serene experience. Loved this little town!
But then the day got even better. We arrived at the Tenuta Torciano Winery, not far from San Gimignano. It is a family-owned business, making wines at this location for 300 years. We were there for a tasting and lunch. The property is gorgeous, the setting spectacular, and our lunch venue an elegant farmhouse. They also have a hotel on the property which looks wonderful. We tasted 6 wines along with our meal, presented by their entertaining sommelier. An appetizing antipasti plate was waiting for us with fresh bread, salami, cheese, and tomato all drizzled with their own homemade olive oil. And we got a taste of their 30-year-old balsamic vinegar. A bowl of fresh pasta in tomato sauce was our main course, with a splash of truffle oil if you wanted it. Everything we tasted as well as other items were available for purchase to take or to ship directly home. Many of us could be seen carrying big boxes and bags as we left. It was a delightful, authentic feeling experience.
Much as we would have liked a little nap time, we then went off for a walking tour of Siena. This is a much bigger city. We walked along the historic walls that border the city and spent time inside the Duomo to view the stained-glass windows, stunning mosaic floors, frescoes, paintings, and countless religious artifacts. We had free time in the iconic Piazza del Campo, a fan-shaped central square, which is the site of the Palio horse race. We saw photos of as many as 40,000 fans packed into this relatively small space - a frightening prospect. Our guide made it clear it is more desirable to watch the less than two-minute race from home!
It was a 90-minute ride back to the port, just in time for the ship to leave for our next major stop in Italy.
Civitavecchia
It was a cloudy, cool morning as we headed into Civitavecchia to see what was there on the first of two days in this port. It isn’t known or promoted as a destination by itself - mostly as the way to get to Rome. But we were pleasantly rewarded on our 5-mile walk, with a clean and inviting promenade and a few fun sites. There are two kissing sculptures, one looking just like the famous statue of the sailor and the nurse in San Diego. The other is a tasteful bronze sculpture also of a sailor kissing a woman and is called “Kissing in Memory of a Port”. The massive Michaelangelo Fortress dominates the port area, and we walked around it in order to get to the city streets. There are many remnants of the ancient walls that have been left, while high rise apartments are built right behind them. The active waterfront is lined with large fishing boats, and it is clear this is a serious industry here. The earlier drizzle turned to rain, sending us back to the ship for an afternoon of quiet time.
Day two in Civitavecchia was a long tour day. We headed away from the large tourist centers on a tour called "Etruscan Treasures." It began in the walled city of Tarquinia, founded in the 7th century BC. There we hopped on a trolley train for a narrated tour of the narrow streets, stopping for spectacular views over the valleys below and to see the St Francesco Church, the 14th Century Town Hall, the Cathedral, and several lovely squares. The map we were given highlights 44 points of interest in this relatively small space including churches, theaters, museums, and the vast Necropolis.
Lunch was at an ancient winery, where we tasted three local wines and had some of the best homemade lasagna we’ve ever eaten. The views were wonderful from their hilltop perch. Then on to the town of Marta for a walk along Lake Bolsena. We explored the small fishing village within the town and got up close with the boats and unique nets they use.
SELECT & REPLACE WITH ANOTHER TEMPLATE
SELECT & REPLACE WITH ANOTHER TEMPLATE
Our final stop was Tuscania village on a plateau above the River Marta. It is one of the oldest towns in Italy. Our narrated tour here was on foot, from the Clock Tower entrance through the main street, passing a massive fountain, and ending at a public park with dramatic views into the valley below. We could see, from a distance, two well-preserved Christian basilicas from the 9th century still in use. The day overall was an enjoyable immersion in ancient history!
Naples
We had another tour from Naples with our Cruise Specialists guests. What better way to spend the day than with delicious Napolitano pizza and a visit to the ruins of Pompeii. Since it was a late morning start to our day, lunch was first. A lovely hotel just outside the Pompeii site prepared a typical meal for us of salad, fresh bread, a huge pizza each, and gelato for dessert. Even though we were seated in a huge dining room that probably held several hundred people, we were the only ones there. And even though it was barely Noon, everyone seemed to enjoy the local wines served with our meal.
SELECT & REPLACE WITH ANOTHER TEMPLATE
SELECT & REPLACE WITH ANOTHER TEMPLATE
Our guide for this tour was special. His enthusiasm for the history and archeology of Pompeii was infectious. He told stories and myths and really brought the place to life. We used special headsets that allowed us to see an artist rendition of what the various sites looked like before they were destroyed by the volcano. His vivid descriptions had us imagining what everyday life was like and what happened to the residents as the destruction began.
We spent two hours walking the site and although we only covered a small part, it was the perfect itinerary. There are 22 additional acres still to be excavated in the coming years - a good reason to return.
Sicily
One final day in Italy brought us to the island of Sicily and its port city of Catania. All the tours here take guests out of town - to Mt Etna, to the ancient Greek city of Syracuse, or to Taormina, a village built in the 3rd century by the Greeks but completely renovated by the Romans. Not really wanting another long tour day, we opted to walk into the city, a very short distance from the pier. We were here in 2014, and looking back at our notes from that visit, we were impressed by the classical architecture, the archeological sites, and some of the parks that provided an oasis from the city noise and traffic. Although the beautiful buildings, Churches, and ancient ruins are still there, they were overshadowed by the noise and chaos of life in the city. We talked to friends who managed to find a charming neighborhood or two with inviting restaurants, festive street décor, and upscale shops.
A much needed and appreciated day at sea will bring us to Piraeus, Greece, the port for Athens and then on to our very special first visit to Egypt.
Fondly,
Wendy and Steve
See all blog posts:
Beginning our 42-Day Ultimate Mediterranean Voyage | Acropolis & Egyptian Pyramids | Malta & Tunisia | Gibraltar, Tangier, and Seville | Conclusion
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