We had never been to Brest, France before and knew very little about it. It’s an important harbor and has a large military presence. It was occupied by the Germans during World War II and heavily damaged by the Allied bombing raids. Today it is an interesting mix of the medieval and the modern.
We took a shuttle from the port to the Brest Castle, set high up on the plateau that separates the port and harbor from the main business districts.
We watched a cable car cross the river and disappear into a large industrial building. So, of course we had to see where it went. Called Ateliers des Capucins, the building is a massive warehouse, filled with workshops, stores, and some unique old industrial equipment. We also wandered down to the Rue Saint-Malo, the tiny street that remarkably was not destroyed during the bombings. There was a pleasant wide pedestrian-only shopping street and loads of places to sit outside in the sun and watch the passing parade. Our final place to walk was down by the marinas - more cafés looking out on the small boat marina. It was a gorgeous day, so everyone was out enjoying the weather.
Cherbourg, France
Cherbourg, France was our next stop, and we were told it is the most popular place for tours of the whole voyage. Many were looking forward to a visit to Mont Saint-Michel, the abbey that looks like a fortress. It looked like something out of Harry Potter to us. Sitting on a tidal island about a mile off the coast of Northwest mainland France, it used to be accessible only during low tide. We heard there is now a proper bridge to take visitors across! It would have been an interesting place to visit, as we have never been, but we had a special tour for our Cruise Specialists guests called, “D-Day Landing Beaches.”
Cruise Specialists Normandy Tour
Leaving in the morning, we drove out to Normandy for a look at Utah Beach. Our guide had a wealth of information about the planning and execution of the June 6,1944, invasion. We spent a lot of time at the Airborne Museum in the village of Sainte-Mère-Église, famous for the Church where John Steele was caught by his parachute hanging from the bell tower of the church. The museum includes an incredible collection of information and realistic exhibits such as: films; equipment including tanks, planes and guns; maps; and personal accounts of soldiers and families, all telling the story of that famous day in our history.
We enjoyed lunch by the seaside in the village of Port-en-Bessin-Huppain, in between Omaha and Gold beaches, before a moving visit to the American Cemetery. Here we had a chance to view the more than 9,000 marble crosses, the wall inscribed with the names of the 1,900 missing, and intricate maps describing the D-Day operations. The site is beautifully constructed and maintained and provided a somber and moving experience for us all.
Our final stop was Omaha Beach, today looking more like a resort but still carrying many remnants of the fighting that took place here. It was a long day, but everyone felt it was very worthwhile.
Zeebrugge, Belgium
We hurried off to our next port of Zeebrugge, Belgium. The charming and romantic city of Bruges was high on the list of most desirable places to visit. From the port, a shuttle took guests to the train station in Blankenberge where they could catch the once-an-hour train to Bruges. We considered that option but chose to check out the city of Blankenberge instead. And what a great choice that was. We loved it!
A ten-minute walk from the shuttle is the 6-kilometer-long beach, with an amazing promenade that runs the entire length. There are hundreds of little white cabana buildings lining the sand and tall, modern condo type buildings overlooking the water. The sight of the crashing waves was mesmerizing. It was Sunday and not yet the summer season, so it was generally very quiet early in the day. We did see many people walking as if in a race. They were all over the city, all following the same path. We read later that it was a commemorative walk over 2 days between Bruges and Blankenberge.
Along the beach is the Belgium Pier, 1,000 feet long and extending out into the sea. It ends in a beautiful circular building that houses a restaurant with a wide promenade all the way around. We paused there to enjoy the views.
Blankenberge is known for its art nouveau architecture and celebrates the Belle Epoque period in its Belle Epoque Centrum located in three 19th century mansions. The small boat harbor is lined on one side by inviting cafés and at the end is the famous structure called the Paravang. It’s a unique wind screen and sunshade in the belle-epoque style that has become a popular gathering place.
There are beautiful buildings to admire all over town, pedestrian-only streets, large and well-cared for green spaces devoted to family-friendly activities, and chocolate shops galore. When in Belgium, eat chocolate and “frites,” those oh so tasty triple fried potatoes.
There was something so warm and welcoming about the town. And it was spotlessly clean! How can you not like a place that gives you a local map with discount coupons titled “Happy to Sea You!”
Blankenberge doesn’t have the canals or romantic reputation of Bruges, but if you love an old-fashioned seaside resort, this is your spot. We know those who went to Bruges either on tour or by taking the train had wonderful experiences and we will return there when we have the chance.
Ijmuiden, Netherlands
No time to rest. Ijmuiden, Netherlands has become the alternative cruise ship port to Amsterdam and is the final segment transition port for this voyage. There was a net change of about 100 new passengers bringing our final count to about 1,100 – still well below the ship’s maximum capacity.
Our visit here was complicated by the fact that May 5th is a big holiday in the Netherlands - known as Liberation Day commemorating the end of the Nazi occupation of the country 80 years ago. It follows a day of Remembrance on May 4th to honor those lost in the war. Large crowds were expected in Amsterdam and other cities and most tourist attractions were closed.
We were fortunate to have a wonderful half-day tour with our Cruise Specialists group, taking us to the city of Haarlem, a shorter and more relaxing trip than trying to get to Amsterdam. Haarlem is known for its cobblestone streets, gabled buildings, tulip growing regions, and the art of Frans Hals.
We enjoyed a one-hour canal cruise and a guided walking tour of a lovely part of this historic city. It reminded us of Delft or a much smaller, less crowded version of Amsterdam. The main attraction here is Saint Bavo's Cathedral, a huge Gothic structure that dominates the skyline. Due to the holiday, it was not open to visitors. We instead spent free time wandering the streets around the central square and either shopping or stopping at the many outdoor cafés that were open. We loved the delicious slice of Dutch apple tart we found that became our lunch!
As we were leaving the city to return to the ship, we noticed it was getting much busier - people arriving for a music festival that evening. But the traffic and crowds we were warned about never materialized that early in the day.
We are so in need of a Sea Day now, on the way to Edinburgh, Scotland to see the castle.
Fondly,
Wendy and Steve
Continue Reading:
A Bon Voyage! | Costa Rica & Panama | Ecuador and Northern Peru | Wendy's Adventures in Peru | Steve's Adventure in Machu Picchu | Arica and San Antonio, Chile | Robinson Crusoe & Southern Chile | More Chile & Argentina | Antarctica | Falkland Islands | Montevideo & Punta del Este | Brazil | The Amazon | Salvation Islands | Arriving in Africa | Canary Islands & Morocco | Gibraltar and Barcelona | Spain & Portugal | France, Belgium and The Netherlands | Scotland and Norway | More Norway | Iceland | Greenland | Canada & New England | Voyage Summary
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