We can’t think of a sail-in that is as scenic as the arrival to Valletta, Malta. It is breathtaking to see the massive, fortified walls in every direction, luxury yachts in the harbor, and gorgeous architecture all around. We arrived at three in the afternoon and decided to go out for a walk.
The terrain is very hilly, and it is uphill to reach the City Center. To accommodate those who can’t do the walk, the Barrakka Lift will take you up to the beautiful Barrakka Gardens for just one Euro. We decided to walk but just as we arrived up top, the heavy rains began. We continued toward our destination to Fort St Elmo, about a mile from the ship and at the very end of the City. It houses the National War Museum, which highlights Malta’s role in WWII. Historic sites are everywhere - the Siege Bell War Memorial, the Triton Fountain, the Valletta and Victoria Gates, St John’s Co-Cathedral, the National Museum of Archeology, and the Grand Master’s Palace. We saw them all but didn’t stop much, hoping for better weather the next day.
Mdina
The next morning, we left the ship and took a very inexpensive Uber to the wonderful small city of Mdina, about 6 miles from Valletta. It is the oldest fortified medieval town in Malta and sits on top of a hill with a commanding view. This could be our new favorite place. Completely walled, beautifully maintained, spotlessly clean, and early in the morning, totally empty except for the 250 residents and a few assorted workers and delivery people. Beautiful flowers everywhere; small, enclosed gardens; unique arches, doors and gates; historic buildings and Churches; colorful Maltese balconies and iron décor over the windows. It was serene. According to one of the locals, if we returned after dark to see the Christmas lights, it would be magical.
Fort St Elmo
Back in Valletta, our Uber dropped us at Fort St Elmo again for a nicer walk in the sunshine. Wandering down a side street, we were enticed by a delicious looking pizza at a tiny “pastizzeria,” selling pizzas and pastries. We asked for 2 slices and for 5 Euros, we got half a regular size pizza - Malta style, with ham, eggs, mushrooms, and cheese on a big fluffy crust, perfectly baked. It was wonderful and so filling we could hardly finish it. Needing to walk off a few of those calories, we ventured into the heart of the tourist section of town, teeming with locals, as well as passengers and crew from two big ships. The outdoor cafes were full and the shops busy. Every street here is interesting and as much as we wanted to stay, it was time to return to the ship.
Tunisia
Another new country for us is Tunisia. We docked at the port city of La Goulette, about 15 minutes from the capital of Tunis. We were fortunate to have an excellent tour organized for us by Cruise Specialists that took us out to some special places away from the city. First, an extensive visit to the ruins of Carthage, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This is a huge complex, not far from the port, but worth having a guide to put it all in context.
Founded by the Phoenicians, Carthage was destroyed and rebuilt by the Romans. It’s the place where Hannibal started his famous elephant ride across the Pyrenees. We explored the Roman Baths, the remains of the Coliseum, some well-preserved villas of the wealthy, and the Cathedral at the top of the hill. There was also a sobering visit to the North African American Cemetery where there are over 2,800 graves of soldiers from World War II. There is also a Tablet of the Missing - a 364-foot wall with the names of 3,700 missing in service from all branches of the military in the region. It’s a beautiful spot.
We paused for a snack of pastries and drinks at a local cafe before having some free time to shop and wander through the picturesque village of Sidi Bou Said. All the buildings are white with electric blue trim - quite striking. Shop after shop sells local crafts, pottery, mosaics, jewelry, and leather goods and bargaining is not only expected but encouraged.
Sardinia
We arrived in Cagliari, Sardinia on a super windy day. Our tour for today, called a Taste of Sardinia, started with a one hour walk through the Old Town. We headed up to the top of Mount Urpino and had an interesting walk down hill, stopping for the views and to see the Cathedral, the Archbishop's Palace, and the Governor’s Palace. A panoramic drive highlighted the local beaches as we headed to the tasting part of our tour. In an open, barn-like room, we sat at big tables and were served cheeses, salamis, olives, fresh bread, and pitchers of wine. Costumed waiters became the singers and dancers for a folkloric show. Some excellent cookies and pastries with a sweet wine called Mirto rounded out the lunch. A few of the guests were persuaded to join in the dancing at the end, it was a fun time.
We have another sea day to relax on board before our next port in Gibraltar.
Fondly,
Wendy and Steve
See all blog posts from this voyage:
Beginning our 42-Day Ultimate Mediterranean Voyage | Exploring Italy | The Acropolis & Egyptian Pyramids | Gibraltar, Tangier & Seville | Conclusion
See Cruises in the Mediterranean >>